Japanese Mizuhiki Cord

I don't suppose there's any reason why I should have heard of this cord before, but I haven't, and when I saw some online, I just had to bid. There is an explanation here, for those of you who don't know about this. Wikipedia contradicts the explanation on the above link, and says "The cord is created from rice paper, that is tightly wound, starched to give it stiffness, and then colored". Oh well, I'll leave it to you guys to investigate further if required. My cords appear to be wrapped in a foil like paper. The photos below don't really do the colours justice, they are extremely vibrant.. I have an idea I will try a couple of Keith Smiths pamphlet bindings with them, although i suspect they will be difficult to use, as they are a bit stiff to use as threads. I'll post my experiments, and you can judge. There are 40 cords, each 0.9m long.

My Self Made Sewing Cradle

Heres a quick post showing my Swing Cradle, just another part of my bookbing toolkit. Construction should be self explanatory, but if anyone wants a tutorial, i can write one.

My First Book with Content - Book No 0008

Today I made this book. I used a programme called Poladroid to turn photos of my 3 year old into old time Polaroid lookalikes - complete with fuzzy image and even the white paper border around. Try it, it's realism is taken as far as that the images take time to 'develop' on screen, and the software needs closing and restarting after 10 images, as in the film cartridge needs changing! So, once I had 18 images, I printed 2 to a page on a photoshop layout (if enough interest - I'll upload the template) on standard glossy 4x6 inch (10x15 cm) photo paper. These were folded to make 9 'signatures'. I then accordian folded a piece of white / silver striped paper, and sewed one signature ('open' end) to each mountain fold. I 'straddled' the fold with the open ends of the folded signature and pamphet stitched them on. I varied the spacing of these sewings, to avoid all 9 knots being in same place inside the spine. I then cut the card cover, and cut the window in the spine. Then I sewed though each valley in spine and looped out and around the paper spine. I did end up tying off directly onto the loops of pamphlet stitch used to hold the signatures! I'm not sure that's a recognised way of doing that, but it worked here!

Book No 0008 - 4x3 inches (10x7.5 cms)

And here is a Poladroid of the middle image above, just so you can see what the software does.

Tutorial - Handmade Plywood

See my last post for further information and a couple more images of this Book No 0004. The covers of this book are plywood, handmade from thin wood veneer.

How to make Plywood from veneers.

Most commercially available (search on Ebay, etc) wood veneer, is 0.6mm thick, or thereabouts. This is far too thin and fragile to use as book covers on its own, so it needs to be laminated together. As you would expect, exactly like paper, a single sheet of veneer has distinct grain. It bends very easily in one direction (along the grain), but not so easily in the other (across the grain).

Because of these flexing properties, you must laminate adjacent sheets at 90 degrees to each other. ie, if using 3 sheets, the 2 outer sheets should have the grain running 'north - south', with the middle of the sandwich having its grain running 'east - west'.

For my covers, I laminated 3 pieces of veneer, to produce a board approx 1.8mm thick. For bigger boards, more laminations will be required, but always use an odd number of pieces, eg, 3, 5 or 7 pieces, and always alternate the grain direction. Different colour veneers will also be attractive.

The theory is no different to pasting paper onto a cardboard cover for a book, you need to paste paper on both sides, to allow shrinkage / warping of either side to cancel each other out.

I use ordinary pva glue, well spread, and once protected by waxed paper, pressed in my book press until dry.

Finishing.

Timber finishing generally is a huge subject, but this is what i did.

Once dry, trim the boards to size with a knife. Using a very fine sandpaper, sand the faces, and edges of the board. I then applied Boiled Linseed oil sparingly to each side (again, both sides need to be oiled, to avoid distortion in the boards) with a cotton cloth. Rub the oil well in, and buff thoroughly. Ideally, leave for 24 hrs, and repeat the process. Numerous coats build up to produce a wonderful soft sheen.

But, and its a big but, ensure the oil is thoughly dry before taking them anywhere near your paper, as any excess oil will leach into the paper. To ensure this didn't happen, I wrapped the boards in kitchen tissue, and pressed again in the press for 24 hours. My theory is that the pressing will ensure any leaching goes into the tissue. Once you're happy they are dry, you can use the boards.

My Home Made Press

I thought you might like to see a picture of my very sturdy home made press. I use this for pressing wet posts of papers, and (when dry) for pressing signatures, etc, for my books. This form of construction is extremely strong, and you get a huge amount of pressuer from even the smallest 1.5 Ton bottle jack that i'm using. A very useful tool. I built it to suit the materials to hand, but it will take A4 sheets if needs be.